Palermo is a town where it is possible to see
everywhere the union between the Orient
and the Occident, at the point to make me think that it would be a paradise
for an Orientalist. Its
monuments have a so peculiar style that it is difficult to give properly the
idea. For this reason I entrust Guy de Maupassand, who in his La vie errante describes them in this
way:
After
seeing these monuments, which, though belonging to different periods and being
different origin still have the same character, the same nature, one can truly
say that they are neither Gothic nor Arabic nor Byzantine, but Sicilian; one
can assert that there is a Sicilian art and style, forever recognizable, which is
assuredly more delightful, varied, more highly colored and full of
conceptions.
It seems a
marvel, doesn't it? And in effect, it is. With this post, I would like to
propose to you a little itinerary to discover some of the most beautiful and
important monuments of Palermo, which you must not miss in particular of you
are fascinated by the Orient.
Saint Rosalia in front of th Cathedral |
So, let's
start and walk along Maqueda street in the direction of Quattro Canti.
# Saint Cataldo Church
The first
attraction you will find at your right. You will notice this little church for
its aspect: a parallelepipedon with three red cupolas. It dates back the 12th
century and inside it is quite simple and bare, but the floor is what
will catch your attention.
# Martorana (the Church of Santa Maria
dell'Ammiraglio)
No, do not
go ahead in Maqueda street, it is not the moment yet. Instead, go on the left
of Saint Cataldo Church, where a bell tower near a very tall palm tree makes
you doubt to be still in Italy. This is the most famous and beautiful Medieval
church of the town. Inside you will find Byzantine mosaics, the Norman apse and
Baroque-style frescos, all gathered in the same place in perfect harmony. So,
while other populations fought one against the other, here Arabs, Sicilians and
Normans cooperated to create this marvel!
Culinary curiosity: one of the
typical sweets of Palermo is the fruit
of Martorana, various fruit-shaped
almond patisserie. Its name comes from
the fact that the nuns of this church made these pastries.
# Fontana Pretoria (or the Fountain of the Shame)
From
Bellini square, where the Martorana is, we go to Fontana Pretoria through a
little alley. The town bought this fountain in 1573 to surpass in beauty the Fountain of Orion of Messina. You are asking
why "of the Shame", aren't you? The explanation is simple and funny:
the fountain is animated by a lot of naked nymphes and tritons. When the nuns of Saint Joseph of Teatini
Church, which is in front of the fountain, saw them, they uttered: "What a
shame!" Some friends from Palermo told me that for a certain time people
covered the shameless deities with clothes.
# Quattro Canti
Let's go in
Maqueda street again and after few steps we arrive at Quattro Canti, crossing
of the two main axes of the town and contact point of the four old districts,
Albergheria, Capo, Kalsa and Vucciria. On the façades of the four buildings you
can admire statues and fountains representing Spanish kings, saints and
emblems.
Now, turn
on the left and take Vittorio Emanuele street. Walking along this street you
can see many little shops and workshops of any kind.
# Maria SS. Assunta Cathedral
At a certain point, on your right, you will
see, in all its splendour, the Cathedral, a marvel of cupolas, towers, plumes
and vaults. Saint Rosalia, the patron saint of the town, dominates the large
park in front of the main portal. One could stay hours admiring this building
so particular, almost magic. An
atmosphere given by the fusion of different styles, here too, but perfectly
melt together. Inside, it hosts the grave of Fredrick II and of Norman kings
and the treasure with Constance of Aragon's crown. Besides, it is possible to
visit the roof of the Cathedral, during the evening too. Look carefully the
floor: there is a "camera obscura" sundial realized in 1801. On it,
there are the signs of the zodiac. At 12, from the lantern of a cupola, a beam
of light enters and hits one of the signs: it indicates the constellation in
which we are in that precise moment of the year.
Let's go
ahead with our itinerary and walk in Vittorio Emanuele street, passing through Porta Nuova. We are going to the Royal Palace, where we will find the
famous Palatine Chapel, World Hertage Site.
# Palatine Chapel
A gold
breath-taking marvel and another example of the union between Latin and
Byzantine elements. The walls are completely covered with mosaics representing
the stories of the New Testament and a huge Christ that has the power to make
you feel so small in front of so much immensity.
And with
that we come to the end of this itinerary. What do you think about?
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